Try This Project | Pona Jacket
I recently made the Pona Jacket by Helen's Closet to create a light-weight jacket for the cooler Brisbane months, especially during the day when our winter isn't very cold at all!
I decided to use a tencel twill from Fabric Hunt for this project. I chose this fabric for its 'drapey' quality, but I have also seen many Pona Jackets made using linen and denim which look great too!
As per the pattern, I interfaced the collar and back facing. I just used some interfacing I had laying around, but really should have used one that is suitable for silk, therefore allowing these pieces to have the same drape as the rest of the jacket. Choosing the right interfacing can definitely be tricky!
The pattern also recommends to stay-stitch the front, back and front facing pieces. Stay-stitching alone with a cotton or linen fabric may have been okay, but this tencel twill is more susceptible to stretching on parts that are cut on a diagonal (cut on the bias). As such, if I was to make another Pona Jacket in the tencel twill, I would use a fusible strip of interfacing with stitches in it.
I chose to add binding throughout, also from Fabric Hunt, as this is an unlined jacket and I thought it would look and feel fun, plus add a nice finishing touch!
The project took me approximately 3-4 hours to make from start to finish. And I would say it's suitable for an advanced beginner sewist.
I'll be chucking this on over t shirts and jeans during all seasons except for our sweltering summers!
Pattern: Pona Jacket by Helen's Closet
- Full bust 84cm
- Waist 66 cm
- Full hips 95
Approx. Duration: 3-4 hours
Suitability: Advanced Beginner
Fabric Type: Milk Smooth Drape Twill in 'Sand'
Binding: Atelier Brunette Viscose Binding
Supplier: Fabric Hunt
Notions: Rasant thread + binding.
Featured Label: 'Me Made' (available in July 2022)
Machine: Juki DDL-9000C industrial sewing machine for main construction + Bernina L450 overlocker.
💡Lessons Learnt: For interfacing the collar and the back facing, I would have used a lighter interfacing that is suitable for silk. I just used what I had laying around which ended up a bit too stiff.
The instructions recommend stay-stitching the front, back and front facing pieces. Doing this for cotton or linen, may have been okay, but for this tencil twill, it really needed a fusible strip of interfacing in addition to the stitches, such as Vilene Bias Fusible Tape.